Eco

EVERYTHING THERE IS TO KNOW ABOUT BEAUTY’S BIGGEST TREND

The myths, the facts and everything in between about BEAUTY’S TREND.

According to https://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/

BEAUTY'S BIGGEST TREND

Do you know what exactly is BEAUTY’S TREND:

Those acquainted with the beauty scene would be well aware that ‘natural skincare’ is much more than a mere passing trend.

Easily entering into the cosmetics sector as a key player, it speaks to the rise in environmentalism as well as the convergence of beauty and wellness, two industries which are now heavily intertwined.

That being said, natural skincare is still relatively new terrain, plagued with misconceptions, confusing marketing and polarising opinions.

In order to cut through the noise and separate fact from the fiction in natural skincare, we consulted nutritional medicine practitioner, skin therapist and former director of Skinstitut, Fiona Tuck.

WHAT IS ‘NATURAL’ SKINCARE AND HOW IS IT REGULATED?

Seemingly ubiquitous in the beauty world, the term ‘natural skincare’ tends to refer to a lot of things these days, with the phrases ‘clean beauty’, ‘green beauty’ and ‘organic’ also synonymous with the rising trend. actually these are the main arms of BEAUTY’S TREND.

However, as far as regulatory bodies are concerned, the term ‘natural skincare’ is more connected with marketing than it is with any official criteria.

“In Australia we have one of the strictest regulatory systems for cosmetic chemicals, the Therapeutic Goods Association (TGA). The TGA governs what ingredients are allowed to be used in Australian products and reviews the safety of ingredients,” explained Tuck.

 'NATURAL' SKINCARE

“When it comes to natural skincare terms, these are more for marketing purposes rather than cosmetic regulations.”

The regulation or category of a product will also determine the legal claims that can be made around a product, Tuck emphasised.”

If it is registered as a therapeutic good or drug, the guidelines and standards around the claims are much stricter and well monitored.

The majority of skincare is recognised as cosmetic, meaning, non therapeutic,” said Tuck.”

There is no technical regulation when it comes to using words such as ‘clean beauty’ unless it is a certified organic product, which will be listed on the label. An organic product could therefore call itself organic but not contain all organic ingredients. The only way to be sure you have an organic product is to buy a certified organic product.”

IS NATURAL SKINCARE REALLY ‘TOXIN’ FREE?

Arguably one of the most appealing facets in the surge of natural skincare products is their emphasis on being ‘toxin’ or ‘chemical’ free, two things that have come under increasing scrutiny.

The ‘toxic’ ingredients in question? Typical culprits include sulphates, parabens, formaldehyde and artificial fragrance, all of which natural skincare companies market themselves as being free from.

While simply excluding ingredients that have been linked to various health concerns, particularly around hormones, sounds sensible in theory, it’s not as clean cut as it may appear.

“Many skincare companies will market a product as being free from certain ingredients such as sulphates, parabens, formaldehyde and artificial fragrance, but quite often will not disclose that the ingredients they have replaced them with are just as potentially ‘toxic’,” Tuck told BAZAAR.

'TOXIN' FREE skincare

“Some ingredients such as artificial fragrance and sulphates when tested at high strengths have been found to have some kind of detrimental effect to the skin or health. Where this gets misleading is that the ingredients are used in much lower concentrations in skincare and unlikely to have the same effect.”

Still, Tuck noted that it is not possible to categorise a product as ‘good’ or ‘bad’, simply by looking at the ingredient list alone.

“It depends how much of a particular ingredient is in a product as to whether it will have a beneficial or potentially irritating effect. High amounts of artificial fragrance, for instance, when used to perfume a product may be irritating and photo-sensitising to some skins, but in tiny concentrations when used to mask a base product smell, may have no effect at all. High concentrations of some essential oils can also be irritating to the skin, so it really can be a minefield out there,” explained Tuck.

WHY ARE PARABENS CONSIDERED ‘BAD’?

Parabens are perhaps the most controversial of all the ‘toxic’ ingredients as far as marketing terms go.

Pariahs of the natural skincare world, the ingredient’s role in skincare originated in the 1950s, when it was first used as a preservative to prolong the shelf life of a product.

The original cause for concern? A 2004 study found a higher concentration of parabens in the breast tissue of breast cancer patients.

Two things to note about the study, however, are that they did not research the levels of parabens found in normal non-cancer breast tissue, and secondly, that correlation does not neccessarily equal causation. At the same time, the study acknowledged that more information is necessary to develop a better understanding as to just how problematic parabens actually are and how the body handles them.

“There is no evidence to prove that parabens cause breast cancer however their safety is questionable for many,” Tuck agreed.

“There are different types of parabens and some parabens are even used in the food industry as preservatives however they tend to be listed as ‘E’ numbers and so people often don’t realise what they are eating. Because parabens have had a bad wrap in the press many skincare companies choose to use alternative preservatives in their products such as Phenoxyethanol.”

paraben free skincare

IS NATURAL SKINCARE ACTUALLY BETTER FOR YOU? Is the NATURAL SKINCARE a good BEAUTY’S TREND

Believing that because something is ‘natural’ it is automatically superior and therefore more effective is a fairly common train of thought.

As tempting as it may be to think this way, it may not necessarily be the case.

As with most things, there’s more than one to the story, and in the case of natural skincare, its efficacy largely comes down to what it’s being used for, Tuck explained.”If you have acne, for example, and are using cocoa butter or coconut oil as a moisturiser, then it is highly likely that you could worsen congestion,” said Tuck.

“Many sulphate-free shampoos do not clean the hair well and leave it feeling like straw. There are varying degrees of ‘natural’ and some products may even call themselves ‘natural’ whilst still containing many synthetic chemicals.

“The skin is the largest organ of the body and is capable of absorbing topical ingredients, however it also plays the role of an elimination system, and the widespread claim that 60-70% of what we place on our skin is absorbed into our bloodstream is largely considered to be false.The body certainly can absorb things, and the presence of certain chemicals can increase those absorption rates, but it’s not as cut and dry as ‘natural is better’ and being selective as to how and where you choose to use natural or synthetic skincare, can make a difference.

“Your skin is the largest organ of the body and it can absorb topical ingredients. If you use a lot of products with synthetic ingredients and cover your body in them, think baths, lotions, spray tans, your skin will absorb traces of those chemicals,” said Tuck.

“My preference is to avoid or limit use of artificial synthetic chemicals on the body and save more ‘active’ products for the face. Also remember products such as cleansers, washes and shampoos do not stay on the skin and so the likelihood of absorption of ingredients is negligible.”

Beauty trend natural skincare

SHOULD WE BE WORRIED ABOUT SYNTHETIC SKINCARE?

Given that the alleged superiority of natural skincare is not quite clear-cut and misinformation in the form of marketing is easily disseminated, it’s unsurprising that consumers are confused as to the safety of certain ingredients as well as their overall efficacy.

If unsure of the quality of ingredients or whether a product would suit your skin, Tuck emphasised speaking to qualified experts”There is lot of scaremongering on line by unqualified ‘experts’ and so many people are scared of using skincare with ‘chemicals’ yet these are ingredients that have been safe to use in specific amounts by the TGA,” Tuck told BAZAAR.

“There are varying degrees of natural products, some are purer than others, so speak to a professional skincare expert to determine what is best for your skin.

There are some very good natural or clean ‘no nasty’ products that work well on the skin and there are also ones that are very crude that go rancid easily and can even promote congestion in the skin.”

SYNTHETIC SKINCARE

ARE ANY NATURAL SKINCARE PRODUCTS ACTUALLY BETTER THAN THEIR CHEMICAL COUNTERPARTS?

“Sunscreens such as zinc oxide are highly effective and may be better for the skin as they tend to be less irritating to the skin than their chemical counterparts.

Natural deodorants are not the same as antiperspirants so whilst some mask odour they do not tend to inhibit sweating or wetness. I have yet to find one that works as well as a chemical antiperspirant,” said Tuck.

There are lot to tell about BEAUTY’S TREND, but we should make our choice to go with the trends or to chose the right thing. Not all BEAUTY’S TRENDs are to be chosen we should think wise and just follow the good BEAUTY’S TREND.

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There is no planet B

No we are not lost in space, but we’re doing a damn fine job of collectively screwing up planet earth. In the land down under, we can’t even get organised enough to take reusable bags to the supermarket.

DID YOU KNOW?

  • Currently, we’re exposed to well over 85,000 synthetic chemicals that are not fully tested. These chemicals are ubiquitous and found in the foods we eat, the water we drink and the air we breathe. 
  • Out of the 10,500-plus cosmetic ingredients that are used in personal care products, only 11% have been reviewed and catalogued. That is for single dose and single use only.
  • There is no pre-market approval required for the sale of chemical-filled cosmetics, unless you are making a therapeutic claim.
  • There are no legal definitions of the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ and there are no laws to regulate their use.
  • Fragrances are considered trade secrets and are not listed on labels because manufacturers are not required to disclose the components of fragrance ingredients. Instead the generic term ‘parfum’ is listed to disguise a multitude of potentially harmful chemicals.

If you’re over being in the dark about what dangerous chemicals your beauty products contain and you’re ready to be armed with more information, then Truth in Beauty is your solution.

Familiar axioms that are bandied about such as ‘the dose makes the poison’, and ‘60% of what you put on your skin gets absorbed within 26 seconds’, are broad, sweeping nebulous statements that support either side of the chemical argument. 

Neither are really the point. It’s not surprising, that it’s now becoming evident that after an analysis of dozens of everyday chemicals, their combinations, cross relationship and interaction may increase the risk of cancer. 

REGULATIONS

Chemicals in cosmetics are still considered safe in low doses. But who is regulating them and what happens when you ingest a little bit of a lot of different chemicals over time and mix them together in unknown and unquantifiable combinations and concoctions? 

The layering and accumulative effect of applying personal care products has never been tested for safety or regulated and many could have a synergistic or enhanced effect.

SO, HOW ARE COSMETIC CHEMICALS REGULATED?

To the detriment of our health and longevity, the combination of chemicals and the layering of various ingredients is not the way that regulators typically think about cancer risk when they evaluate and assess the safety of a single compound. Instead, a test is carried out on an individual chemical on laboratory animals, exposing them to progressively smaller amounts until it no longer causes malignant tumours to grow. Then they take that dose, and determine the equivalent for humans, and apply what is called a ‘margin of safety’ by declaring that some small fraction of that low dose is safe for people as well. 

The big assumption driving the margin of safety is that a smaller amount of a chemical is less dangerous than a larger amount. 

Even experts agree that that’s not true for all chemicals. Some chemicals like ones that mimic hormones (endocrine disrupting EDC’s), may be more toxic at lower doses because our bodies are attuned to respond to minute quantities of natural hormones such as estrogen and testosterone.

But what’s even more sobering is that regulators haven’t required testing of mixtures of chemicals used in cosmetics at all, so the long-term and combined effects are unknown and unquantified. One of the most pressing issues is to implement changes in the way regulators assess the health effects of chemical mixtures. This isn’t going to happen unless we as consumers are in the know and take decisive and informed action.

HAS ANYTHING CHANGED?

In 2013, a research team (a coalition of 174 researchers from 28 countries) set out to determine whether mixtures of some chemicals, at small concentrations found in the environment, could plausibly trigger the formation of cancerous tumours. They focused on 85 chemicals that were impossible to avoid in modern life, that were likely to disturb biological function and were not thought to pose cancer risks at the very low doses that people tend to ingest or are exposed to them.

The researchers scoured the scientific literature to understand how each of these chemicals could affect 10 important processes that are essential to cancer development. Among them: tumour-promoting inflammation, resistance to cell death and the formation of new blood vessels to feed malignant cells.

In addition, they categorised whether each of the chemicals exerted biological effects at very low doses to which humans are ubiquitously exposed. (These doses are so small that they tend to be measured in parts per million or parts per billion.)

Of the 85 chemicals researchers examined, 50 were found to affect cancer-causing processes in the body, even at very low doses. These 50 everyday chemicals included bisphenol A (used in manufacturing plastics), triclosan (often found in hand sanitiser and anti-bacterial soap) and atrazine (a commonly used herbicide).

Each of these chemicals affects different processes that could lead to cancer for example – Bisphenol A makes cells less sensitive to signals to stop reproducing and atrazine encourages inflammation. It’s plausible that consuming mixtures of these chemicals is riskier than consuming any one individually. 

Five years later and still very little has changed when it comes to harmful chemicals in cosmetics. Regulators and policy makers need to start looking at the totality of the exposure, instead of one chemical at a time. 

Truth in Beauty is about transparency as opposed to fearmongering. It’s about making self-empowered and informed choices that support health and wellness. It’s about harm minimisation and stacking the cards in your favour.

It Supports Sustainability

Since most natural ingredients aren’t typically whipped up in a test tube, most companies need to get them from somewhere. But unless you want to run out of shea butter forever (#nightmare), sustainability is essential. sustainability means that the ingredient (or formula, or even the packaging) is produced in a way that doesn’t threaten its existence or harm the environment in any way. So sustainable packaging is often recyclable or reusable (think luxe glass bottles), and sustainable ingredients can be grown without having any sort of negative impact on the environment.

You’re Actually Helping the Planet

The active ingredients in that organic serum have to come from somewhere, right — and more often than not, they’re grown on farms. (Surprise!) Increasingly, brands formulate products on their own property, where they plant, nurture, and harvest the ingredients that go into their products — then, eventually, onto your skin. Instead of solely consuming plants via that jojoba seed oil-infused face cream, you’re actually supporting plant life (which, as we learned in second grade, is vital for clean air) by driving up the demand for them.

Plants Are More Powerful Than You Think

Mother Nature, am I right? Earthy ingredients used to get a bad rep for not being as effective as their lab-driven counterparts, but that’s a misconception. With new, high-tech extraction processes and innovative compounds, potent, plant-based active ingredients are now easy to find in natural beauty products — and they give traditional formulas a run for their money. If you don’t believe us, try any fruit-acid peel and tell us if you don’t feel a tingle.